A man who did not want to get married was asked : But when are you getting married?
He would answer : “Quannu s’ asciucanu i balati ra vucciria !” .
All this is to say that he would never marry as the marble slabs of the Vucciria Market, on which the fish was displayed, were always wet by the fishmongers who threw water on the merchandise, over and over again, to make it always look fresh!
In the heart of Palermo’s ancient center begins our journey into Sicilian culture, an experience that mixes tradition and everyday life.
In this article we present the Vucciria, an old and fascinating district market that over the centuries has been able to renew itself to survive the changing times. Here among narrow alleys and ancient buildings, every corner tells a story.
History of the Vucciria
The history of the Vucciria is part of that of Palermo, this market, in fact, has ancient origins, dating back to the Middle Ages.
According to official historiography in the 13th century,Genoese, Pisan and Venetian merchants established their stores in this area because of its proximity to the Cala Landing, the oldest area of Palermo’s port.
The first nucleus of the market, in fact, began to take shape in the very area of Piazza Caracciolo, between Via Roma, La Cala, the Cassaro, Piazza del Garraffello, Via Argenteria nuova and Via Maccheronai.
The name “Vucciria” derives from the French word “boucherie“ (butcher’s shop) or “beccheria“ (from “becco” i.e. goat) , to indicate its function as a meat market.
Over the coso of years, the stalls of the Vucciria market were transformed, selling mainly fish, given the city’s seafaring vocation, but also vegetables, some fruit, sweets and all kinds of goods that reached the port of Palermo.
The success of this market meant that, in the Palermo dialect, the term “Vucciria” became synonymous with the “noisy clamor” typical of open-air markets, where vendors loudly call the attention of customers.
Thus it was named Vucciria Grande precisely to distinguish it from Palermo’s other district markets, also called “vuccirie.”
Viceroy Caracciolo and the reform of the Vucciria Market.
Piazza Caracciolo, still one of the focal points of the Vucciria, is so named in honor of Giovanni Luca Barberini Caracciolo, Viceroy of Sicily from 1635 to 1638, a central figure in the market’s history.
At the time, the Vucciria market was already one of the city’s major markets, but it suffered from problems related to disorder and lack of regulation, with stalls often arranged in a chaotic manner that hindered the movement of people and goods.
Viceroy Caracciolo undertook a series of interventions to reorganize the Vucciria, improving the layout of the stalls and trying to create a more orderly and safe environment.
One of the main goals of Caracciolo’s reform was to reorganize the market space to make it easier for citizens to access and enjoy it.
people.
Porticoes were built to delimit the square space that housed the market stalls, and the fountain with the four lions was placed in the center.The stalls were arranged in a more orderly fashion, with well-defined paths for people to pass through.
Caracciolo’s reforms left a lasting imprint on the Vucciria, helping to transform it into a more orderly and functional market, but without depriving it of its popular character and liveliness.
Although the Vucciria has gone through several changes over the centuries, Caracciolo’s intervention represents one of the first attempts to modernize and regulate one of Palermo’s most chaotic and fascinating places.
The Vucciria today: the market that never sleeps
Today the Vucciria is no longer just a market, but a true symbol of Palermo’s soul, one of the city’s oldest and most characteristic places that has inspired artists, writers and travelers from all over the world. It is the area of Palermo that never sleeps, active and hectic 24 hours a day and night. There is always something to do or discover here, and you certainly will not get to know it in one visit.
Visiting the Vucciria by day
Walking through the stalls of the Vucciria is an experience that engages all the senses. The dialect of the vendors, who promote their products with colorful expressions, mingle with the typical sounds of the market, creating a chaotic but pleasant symphony.
The bright colors of fruits and vegetables, the intense scents of spices, and the lure of freshly caught fish make this visit a special experience.
The stalls of the Vucciria are overflowing with fresh, local produce, from Sicilian oranges to Pachino tomatoes, via artichokes and eggplants.
A real feast for the eyes and the palate, with ready-to-eat fruit and vegetables perfect for traditional cooking.
Also rich in cheeses and cured meats and typical of Sicily, particularly ricotta and pecorino accompanied by spices such as oregano, chili peppers and saffron, which fill the air with Mediterranean scents.
The fish section is perhaps the most characteristic of the Vucciria market.
Here you will find swordfish, octopus, shrimp and sardines displayed on beds of ice.
It is not uncommon to see fishmongers expertly cleaning and cutting fish directly in front of customers, offering a show of skill and tradition. Tasting raw fish dishes in the Vucciria market is not an experience to recommend to just anyone, although the temptation to do so will be very strong.
Visiting the Vucciria by Night
When the sun goes down, the Vucciria transforms into one of Palermo’s nightlife hubs. The stalls close, but the squares and alleys fill with young people, street performers and musicians, creating a vibrant atmosphere.
The area’s bars and clubs offer cheap drinks and live music, making the Vucciria a hotspot for those looking for an informal and authentic night out.
Here it is possible to have aperitifs, dine, and entertain until late at night in the numerous clubs.
Certainly good food and dining are now one of the engines that animate the neighborhood. The Vucciria is now known worldwide for its street food, to be consumed while walking or sitting in the square.
Street food and good things to eat at Palermo’s Vucciria
Besides being a local market, Vucciria’s other vocation is street food, a true gastronomic paradise.
Every corner offers a new culinary discovery, with flavors that tell of centuries of tradition and cultural influences.
It is the ideal place to immerse yourself in the authentic tastes of Palermo’s cuisine and have an unforgettable experience. Here are some of the best specialties to enjoy at Vucciria:
Pani Ca Meusa
One of Palermo’s most iconic dishes,“Pani Ca Meusa” is a sandwich stuffed with veal spleen and lung, cooked in lard and served in a soft bun.
You can choose from two versions: “schietto” (plain, with a squeeze of lemon) or “maritato” (enriched with caciocavallo or ricotta cheese)
Stigghiola
Stigghiola are skewers of lamb or kid innards, rolled around a spring onion and parsley, and cooked over embers.
They are served hot and fragrant, with their characteristic smoky flavor.
Sarde a Beccafico
Sarde a beccafico is another Palermo specialty not to be missed.
These are sardines rolled around a mixture of breadcrumbs, pine nuts, raisins, garlic and parsley; baked in the oven and served with a squeeze of lemon.
They are a perfect example of how Sicilian cuisine can combine simple flavors into a rich and delicious dish.
Boiled Octopus
Among the fish stalls of the Vucciria, you can find boiled octopus, a typical and popular street food. Served hot and seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon, octopus has a tender texture and an intense sea flavor, perfect for a light but tasty snack.
The Vucciria and Renato Guttuso
The Vucciria Market and the painter Renato Guttuso are inextricably linked thanks to one of the most famous and iconic paintings of the Italian 20th century: “The Vucciria of Palermo.”. See Featured Image. This painting is not only an artistic representation, but a true tribute to the life and essence of the famous Palermo market.
Born in Bagheria, a small town near Palermo, Guttuso always had a deep connection with his land, which he often depicted in his works in vivid and realistic tones.
The “Vucciria of Palermo,” in particular, always fascinated the artist because of its chaos, colors and the humanity that could be breathed there.
“The Vucciria of Palermo” is a massive work (300 x 300 cm) that is immediately striking in its richness of detail and vivid colors. It portrays a crowded and dynamic market scene, with a variety of stalls filled with typical products, meat, fish, vegetables, fruits and spices, all arranged in a haphazard but incredibly fascinating manner.In the painting,human figures of all ages are depicted, from children to the elderly, each engaged in the daily activities of the market. There are vendors shouting for customers’ attention, people negotiating about prices, and shoppers observing the produce.
Palermo’s Vucciria was painted in 1974, during a period when Guttuso was living between Rome and Milan but had never lost his connection with his Sicily.
It immediately became a symbol of the city and an emblem of contemporary Italian art.
Where the Vucciria is located and how to reach it from downtown Palermo
The Vuccirìa Market is located in the historic center of Palermo, in the Piazza Caracciolo area, between Via Roma and Corso Vittorio Emanuele, but also extends into the surrounding alleys. It is easily accessible from all central areas of the city, the railway station and the Port. It is a place worth exploring on foot to fully enjoy its unique atmosphere and local culinary specialties.
How to reach Vucciria from Palermo Central Station:
- Walking. Leaving the station, walk along Via Roma for about 1.2 km (15-20 minutes) until you reach Piazza San Domenico.
From there, continue for a few minutes to Piazza Caracciolo, where you will find the Vucciria. - By public transportation. Bus direction Politeama, get off at Roma stop.
Getting to the Vucciria from the Port of Palermo
- Walking. Leaving the port, take Via Emerico Amari and then continue on Via Roma for about 1.5 km (20 minutes)
- By public transportation. Bus from the Porto stop and get off at Roma – Vucciria.
How to get to the Vucciria from the Teatro Massimo (a well-known landmark downtown)
- On foot.
Walk along Via Maqueda in the direction of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, then turn right onto Via Roma.
After a few minutes you will arrive at the Vucciria (about a 10-15 minute walk).
The Vucciria is open every day, but the best time to visit is early in the morning, when the stalls are full of fresh produce and the atmosphere is more authentic. Did you like our article on Palermo’s Vucciria Market?
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